Preliminary study: development of sport climbing hold measurement system for performance analysis

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dc.contributor.authorPernus N
dc.contributor.authorMunro, Deborah
dc.date.accessioned2022-07-14T23:10:18Z
dc.date.available2022-07-14T23:10:18Z
dc.date.issued2021en
dc.date.updated2022-05-28T08:44:58Z
dc.description.abstractSport climbing performance analysis requires knowledge of the specific motions and the interactions of the athlete with the climbing holds. The objective of this research is to develop a lowcost measurement system for detecting performance parameters with an instrument mounting screw used with a climbing hold. In the preliminary study, strain gauges were bonded to the shank of a screw and analyzed according to bending theory. For the experimental results, a climbing hold was mounted to a provisional wall with an instrumented mounting screw. The system was able to detect loads at increments of 2 kg applied to the climbing hold with accuracy and repeatability. Testing of loading when applied laterally from the center of the climbing hold showed that the alignment of the strain gauge and location of applied loads are important. The measurement system was capable of identifying the total contact time and time for each application of loads more than 1 kg. Results showed an instrumented mounting screw can be used for monitoring the climber's fluency during climbing and provide information about load distribution between climbing holds during their ascent.en
dc.identifier.citationPernus N, Munro D (2021). Preliminary study: development of sport climbing hold measurement system for performance analysis. ASME 2021 International Mechanical Engineering Congress and Exposition. 01/11/2021-05/11/2021. ASME International Mechanical Engineering Congress and Exposition, Proceedings (IMECE). 5.en
dc.identifier.doihttp://doi.org/10.1115/IMECE2021-67624
dc.identifier.isbn9780791885598
dc.identifier.urihttps://hdl.handle.net/10092/103943
dc.language.isoenen
dc.publisherAmerican Society of Mechanical Engineersen
dc.rightsAll rights reserved unless otherwise stateden
dc.rights.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10092/17651en
dc.subjectSport Climbingen
dc.subjectClimbing Holden
dc.subjectContact Timeen
dc.subjectInstrumented Mounting Screwen
dc.subjectStrain Gaugesen
dc.subjectBending Momenten
dc.subject.anzsrcFields of Research::40 - Engineering::4017 - Mechanical engineeringen
dc.subject.anzsrcFields of Research::42 - Health sciences::4207 - Sports science and exerciseen
dc.titlePreliminary study: development of sport climbing hold measurement system for performance analysisen
dc.typeConference Contributions - Publisheden
uc.collegeFaculty of Engineering
uc.departmentMechanical Engineering
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