Rip current observations on a low-sloping dissipative beach

dc.contributor.authorGallop S
dc.contributor.authorBryan K
dc.contributor.authorPitman SJ
dc.contributor.authorRanasinghe R
dc.contributor.authorSandwell D
dc.date.accessioned2018-05-02T22:44:18Z
dc.date.available2018-05-02T22:44:18Z
dc.date.issued2015en
dc.date.updated2018-01-22T01:19:08Z
dc.description.abstractRip currents are the main cause of beach rescues and fatalities. Key drivers of rip current hazard are: (1) fast current speeds; and (2) the exit rate of floating material from inside to outside of the surf zone. Exit rates may vary temporally, such as due to Very Low Frequency (VLF) motions, which have a period on the order of 10 minutes. However, there is little field data to determine the driver(s) of exit rate. Therefore, the aim of this research was to determine rip current circulation patterns, and specifically, determine their relationship to surf zone exits, on a high-energy dissipative beach. Three days of field measurements were undertaken at Ngarunui Beach, New Zealand. Three daily surf zone flow patterns were found: (1) alongshore; (2) surf zone eddy with high exit rate; and (3) surf zone eddy with no exits. There were strong infragravity peaks in energy within the surf zone, at 30-45s, although none at VLF (~10 minute) frequencies. Further research is underway to determine what drove the high surf zone exit rate observed at Ngarunui Beach.en
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10092/15281
dc.language.isoen
dc.subjectrip currentsen
dc.subjectvideo imageryen
dc.subjectdissipative beachen
dc.subjectsurf zoneen
dc.subjectinfragravity wavesen
dc.subject.anzsrcFields of Research::37 - Earth sciences::3708 - Oceanography::370803 - Physical oceanographyen
dc.subject.anzsrcFields of Research::37 - Earth sciences::3709 - Physical geography and environmental geoscience::370903 - Natural hazardsen
dc.subject.anzsrcField of Research::05 - Environmental Sciences::0502 - Environmental Science and Management::050299 - Environmental Science and Management not elsewhere classifieden
dc.titleRip current observations on a low-sloping dissipative beachen
dc.typeConference Contributions - Otheren
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