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Rip current observations on a low-sloping dissipative beach
Rip currents are the main cause of beach rescues and fatalities. Key drivers of rip current hazard are: (1) fast current speeds; and (2) the exit rate of floating material from inside to outside of the surf zone. Exit ...
Methods for field measurement and remote sensing of the swash zone
Swash action is the dominant process responsible for the cross-shore exchange of sediment between the subaerial and subaqueous zones, with a significant part of the littoral drift also taking place as a result of swash ...