Preliminary study: development of sport climbing hold measurement system for performance analysis

Type of content
Conference Contributions - Published
Thesis discipline
Degree name
Publisher
American Society of Mechanical Engineers
Journal Title
Journal ISSN
Volume Title
Language
Date
2021
Authors
Pernus N
Munro, Deborah
Abstract

Sport climbing performance analysis requires knowledge of the specific motions and the interactions of the athlete with the climbing holds. The objective of this research is to develop a lowcost measurement system for detecting performance parameters with an instrument mounting screw used with a climbing hold. In the preliminary study, strain gauges were bonded to the shank of a screw and analyzed according to bending theory. For the experimental results, a climbing hold was mounted to a provisional wall with an instrumented mounting screw. The system was able to detect loads at increments of 2 kg applied to the climbing hold with accuracy and repeatability. Testing of loading when applied laterally from the center of the climbing hold showed that the alignment of the strain gauge and location of applied loads are important. The measurement system was capable of identifying the total contact time and time for each application of loads more than 1 kg. Results showed an instrumented mounting screw can be used for monitoring the climber's fluency during climbing and provide information about load distribution between climbing holds during their ascent.

Description
Citation
Pernus N, Munro D (2021). Preliminary study: development of sport climbing hold measurement system for performance analysis. ASME 2021 International Mechanical Engineering Congress and Exposition. 01/11/2021-05/11/2021. ASME International Mechanical Engineering Congress and Exposition, Proceedings (IMECE). 5.
Keywords
Sport Climbing, Climbing Hold, Contact Time, Instrumented Mounting Screw, Strain Gauges, Bending Moment
Ngā upoko tukutuku/Māori subject headings
ANZSRC fields of research
Fields of Research::40 - Engineering::4017 - Mechanical engineering
Fields of Research::42 - Health sciences::4207 - Sports science and exercise
Rights
All rights reserved unless otherwise stated